After my week in Dubrovnik, I headed north to Budapest for a week. The Hungarian capital, with its cheap drinks and intricately tiled buildings, has been on my bucket list ever since I ate my first chicken paprikash as a young girl. I took the overnight train from Belgrade which was a bit of a traumatizing experience but was happy that I had a friend with me so we could look out for each other. But also, never again! Budapest is divided into two parts by the Danube River, hilly Buda on one side, and the flat Pest on the other. We booked an adorable Airbnb in the Jewish Quarter, which was my favorite area in the city. Although it is now full of ruin bars, design shops, and trendy cafés, this area is filled with painful memories from WWII.